Renewal!

Ah how good to wake up with a renewed mind and a pure heart! But it's early yet...

I was thinking about all the photos of the Christmas party and the March of the Muellecito and how I let them slip away from the blog. I did take the whole kit and kaboodle of them (well almost) and posted them on facebook, frankly because it is a very easy thing to do in one fell swoop. And I thought about how much to post here. Too much thinking.

Instead, a stroll through the garden was in order and there it hit me. Newness is spilling out all over the yard because of the out of nowhere 5 inches of Christmas rain we got. And I want that feeling. So it is onward we go, with just a brief glimpse back to the future...I would have posted a video down at Hector's but...it might be the slightest bit inflammatory. So instead, here are two photos from Christmas 2009 that wrap it up for me.

 

And then there was the March of the Muellecito. I listened to speeches and the passion of Culebra's heart, her people. History was re-told about growing up right on Flamenco beach before the Navy dislocated the population. The local police stood in a line, listening, while Victor Gonzalez's henchmen stood taking photos of us taking photos of them. The No Entre sign was displayed on an easel, as if we were at a museum. And we WERE at a living museum, but it isn't Victor's history, or his ancestors that are being disturbed.

Suddenly the talking stopped and we peacefully walked in to what Culebra already owns. There was no disorder. There was no disrespect. There were groans and shock at the destruction that has occurred under the direction of Victor Gonzalez. The local police respectfully stood by, as members of their family walked in and out, talking, singing, hearing story. It was a good day for Culebra. These three photos pretty well sum it up.

One of these people is not like the others~~~~~~~

May we all be as passionate and real at 87!

Coming home

Elders of the familia

and now, on to the new! With all that it promises. Living here makes me feel strong enough for all the good and all the work to make life good. Feliz Nuevo Ano!

 

Have a marvelous Monday. Do something magnificent!

Parrandas, Tramps, Parangs - Christmas music to island hearts

Once again it is time to explain parrandas for those who are new to this Puerto Rican tradition. You will either become one of the grumblers at being awakened at three in the morning by the music or one, like me, who delights in coming gently out of a sleep to music and laughter, the occasional sound of horses' hooves clattering on the road. My advice is... remember why you are here and embrace this wonderful tradition! If you are fortunate, you might be invited along!
 

Omar Rodríguez

First, let me explain that parrandas are the Puerto Rican name for what in the US Virgin Islands is called a tramp, and down island called a parang. No doubt there are other names I am not familiar with, but three is good enough to get the idea. How can the idea of going out in the middle of the night, dancing, eating, drinking and visiting your neighbors, friends and family not be a great thing? There are traditional foods served (think lechon!) along with traditional drinks (coquito!) and traditional songs sungs.

Oh, the crispy, crackling skin, the aroma!

Go by El Batey early mornings during holiday season

you may get to see the pig on the spit on the side of the building

Coquito - looks like eggnog...tastes like coquito!

 

One of my favorites is usually sung on the Christmas morning tramp, the Guavaberry song. Good morning, good morning, I come for me guavaberry... No one is looking for a handful of berries, but rather the guavaberry liqueur. Once when I was doing an article on St. Thomas about guavaberry liqueur, the woman who told me about it sent someone to her house to bring back the jerry bottle that was kept put away until Christmas. The 'starter' for this particular batch had been passed down in her family for over 60 years. And it was delicious! Ah guavaberry...

 The VI's are close in my heart as St. Croix was the first place I lived in the Caribbean. Arriving in November, it wasn't long before I was hearing traditional Christmas carols sung in calypso beat with steel pans as back up, pouring out of stores sound systems into the streets. I remember the first time (doesn't everybody?) just coming to a halt and standing there listening and laughing...yes, I was in the islands and it was absolutely different here...

And so it is with Culebra. While a Spanish culture, Culebra is foremost a Caribbean culture and the samenesses with other islands stand out far more than the differences. As the years go by and I learn more deeply the roots of the Culebrense I've chosen to spend this part of my life with, Christmas becomes more and more a child like event than ever before - and when I wake up to my first parranda of the year, I'll run outside to catch a view of the singers and players before coming back in to go back to sleep as the music fades away, up the road. Until tomorrow.