From Maine to the Marshall's

Yesterday was the Big Moving Day for Phil and Laurie, a dawn thirty to dark thirty day between Morrill and Boothbay. Today is...the beginning of 'sort it out' day “Longwe, lelebet,” - a little bit of a long way. Moving house can and did have some good stories, but this one from Chuck Handy at the Edge of the World is better. Well, ok, the one younger (as I get older, younger takes on a whole new meaning) moving guy with tons of tattoos who turned out to have been born in Ireland, losing many men in his family in the 'bad times' moved to Long Island, NY as a child in the early 70's - where he grew up in a Puerto Rican neighborhood... and is totally fluent in Spanish - and he is also a boxer...with two Maine Coon cats...that was pretty interesting.

Parties That You Will Never Remember…

   Ahoy Crew and Yokwe!

   

    I attended a Marshallese style “housewarming” or” house dedication party” for my friend Bwiji Aliven and his wife here in Majuro recently. It was a wonderful affair. Bwiji and his wife are moving into a very nice newly constructed dwelling and preparations for the celebration took friends and family several days to complete. Mountains of food were prepared for the guests and included a whole turtle cooked in the ground, two whole pigs, a whole Marlin served sashimi style, several Yellowfin Tuna prepared in several ways, lots of reef fish, boiled octopus in coconut milk, curried giant clams and huge quantities of BBQ chicken and ribs. This was all set out with barrels of rice, salad and breadfruit and accompanied by many cases of beer and soft drinks. A band played well into the early morning hours. Hundreds of guests participated and a fine time was had by all.

I have no idea how Chuck's friend's house is constructed; traditional, modern or somewhere in between, as this time he sent along no photos. But I found this photo of a house in a google search and decided I'll work on the shack when I get home...I want a real porch!

 Japanese era weatherboard house on Bouj, Ailinglaplap Atoll 

(Photograph © 1989-2001 Dirk HR Spennemann)

     

     Earlier in the day, about 10 AM and prior to the festivities, a small group of friends and family gathered in the new house with the priest who blessed the house. He prayed and sprinkled Holy Water all around. He started at the front porch and sprinkled the water throughout the house. As he was wetting down the bedrooms the front door slammed shut.  Everyone was very pleased because obviously a demon-spirit had been chased out of the house by the Holy Water and it had slammed the door shut behind itself! It was a huge success!!  

    

     This was a party that will be remembered by all.  However there are two very important parties that are staged during the course of one’s Marshallese life that are never remembered by the guest of honor.

     

     The very first party to be held for a Marshallese is the keeman (pronounced Kay-Min). This occurs when a child reaches one year old. The infant mortality rate used to be very high here and most children did not reach the milestone of one year old. Those that did had a pretty good chance of further survival and so a big party was staged for them. Another limiting factor to the life of an infant (in the old days) was infanticide. That’s right. After a woman had 3 children infanticide was practiced as a means of population control. The reason being that these islands are very small and can provide food for only so many people. Today, in modern times, infanticide is no longer practiced and families with less than 5 or 6 children are rare. I was sitting around “talking story” with a 3 elderly gentlemen the other day and one of them remarked “Chuck, between the 3 of us we have over 125 children, grandchildren and great grandchildren. It’s very sad that you have no children. You must make some so that they can take care of you when you become too old to take care of yourself!”

    

     The keeman is still considered a very important milestone in the life of a Marshallese person and no expense is spared to throw the most lavish party possible. Parents will frequently go deeply into debt to provide for this event.

    

     The other party held in the life of a Marshallese person that will never be remembered by the guest of honor is the funeral. Typically it is a 3 day event and again it is a most lavish affair that often puts the family deeply in debt.

    

     Personally I do not get too excited by the keemans. Heck, I don’t even like kids! Horrible little monsters, most of them! And funerals have never been high on my list either. But this housewarming of Bwiji’s was really a spectacular and wonderful affair! Congratulations Bwiji!!

    

That’s all for now, Crew…

   Cheers from the edge of the world!

   Chuck

Have a traditional Thursday. Do something tangible.

How's the fishing?

To mark the end of one 'season' (Semana Santa) and the beginning of another (regular days slowly slowing), I thought I'd turn over the blog to my friend Chuck, way out yonder in the Marshall Islands. A good story is a good story and this one has fish in it! Carry on, Woodchuck!

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   Ahoy!

 

   It has been a very active time here at the edge of the world of late. The fishing has been exceptional, the local yacht club held its final race of the season, the drought has abated and life is good!

   A scheduled Marshalls Billfish Club Tournament was cancelled a week ago Saturday due to high winds and big seas. Our crew decided to go out anyway and found excellent mahi mahi and wahoo fishing. We were out for about three hours and caught 15 mahi mahi, 3 wahoo and 2 yellowfin tuna. The tournament was rescheduled for this past Saturday and it was a very productive tournament, one of the best ever according to members of the club.

   Our boat, “Kirtake”, was in the running with a cooler full of wahoo and mahi mahi and one tag and release Blue Marlin but we went 1 for 4 on billfish to lose out to the winners. We had one UFO right out of the gate after about two minutes of lines in the water that created a huge splash. No one saw the fish though so the species was questionable. Shortly after that we put a 30 pound wahoo in the boat. The morning was good for the little fish, mahi running between 15-25 pounds and wahoo 20-30 pounds. We raised one sailfish on a marlin lure that didn’t get hooked and jumped off a small Blue marlin of about 125 pounds.

   After an hour or so of no fish in the afternoon the tag line came down apparently because the rubber band wore out. (Those of you who know this style of fishing will understand more fully what I’m saying here but for the rest of you suffice it to say that the fishing lines needed some adjustment at this point…) There was no pressure on the rod and no sign of fish so I casually put on a new rubber band and hooked it into the tag line. Wouldn’t you know it but just as I put it into freespool to let the tag line fly a good sized Blue Marlin piled on and I watched a horrible backlash explode on the reel. The fish peeled off line and stuck her head and shoulders out of the water as if to laugh at the horrified expression on my face. The fish was a good one with very wide shoulders. Its bill looked like a windshield wiper as it thrashed it back and forth for a few seconds and then it took off again. The backlash, which had resembled a Condor’s nest at first, was almost gone before the line broke. I was sick. That could have been the Tournament winning fish. Coulda, woulda, shoulda…

   The guys on the boat tried to make me feel better by telling me that it could have happened to anyone and that it was just bad luck… But it happened to me! And I’m the one who brought the bunch of bananas along. (I’m not a superstitious person but bananas are traditionally considered bad luck on a sportfishing boat!) I feel so ashamed! I am unworthy!

   For those of interested in the results of this tournament check out the website.  www.billfishclub.com.

Thanks, Chuck! Lucky for you, there are other days and other tournies. Redemption is possible! Go well there, at the edge of the world.

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 Though the forecast says clear, the sky says grey and raining!!!! a nice steady rain, at least right this minute...but some rain is better than none! Sorry visitors (we really need this rain)! The radar looks clear farther out there , just hang in there awhile...in fact, it's stopping as I type....argh.

Hold the excitement down!

Beside being Alexander Graham Bell's Birthday- (March 3, 1847) as well as a day dear to my sandy footed heart, Florida Admission Day, it is also, unbeknownst to me until this year, Japanese Girl Day. And what a great idea to celebrate being a girl, with wishes for healthiness and happiness. Every country needs one of these days (and yes, there is a Japanese Boy Day too, but I'm of the girl gender so this caught my eye first).

Even better, the traditional food for JGD is something I know I'd love but have never had in this form...temari sushi. As if regular sushi wasn't small enough, temari sushi is little rice balls covered with the fish/whatever of your choice and often served at celebratory events.

• Side note: more reasons why I love the internet...I've been eating sushi and sashimi for about 50 years (thanks, Dad!) and just found out about this other traditional style...there is so much to learn every day, every where...I'll never catch up!
  

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Speaking of girls (and I am) congratulations to my granddaughter Sloane, who, with her friends, took second place in the History Day competition for their school. That means they get to advance to the statewide competitions in April. Go, Sloanie girl!!!! (and friends, of course).

• Second place: Kenzie Kimble, Sloane Dyer and Ann Yu, Washburn Rural Middle School, "More Than Just Table Scraps: Innovative Nutrition for Man's Best Friends."

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And last but not least, an update from the other side of the planet: thanks, Chuck, for the good, bad and sad of it.

Tsunami? What Tsunami???

Ahoy Crew and Yokwe from the Marshall Islands!

I send this out to you because I have received a lot of emails concerning the effects of the latest Tsunami Scare. All is well here in the Marshall Islands aboard the good ship "Deviant".

The massive earthquake in Chile the other day triggered Tsunami Warnings across the width of the Pacific Ocean. Fortunately the Tsunami proved to be less than anticipated, in fact here in the Marshalls it passed unnoticed.

The cruising and commercial boats on the docks and at moorings did take the precaution of heading to deeper water further out in the lagoon to ride it out safely in the event of a major occurance. The Tsunami, however, left us not even a ripple. WHEW!!!

As you can tell, I haven't had much to say of late. We have been in the throes of an El Nino inspired drought here and I've been scrambling to keep up with the demand on our water sales. You may remember that we set up a system last year bringing less expensive drinking water to the people of the Marshall Islands. Well the system has expanded from a few hundred gallons a day to couple of thousand gallons a day. We are getting ready to install a much larger Reverse Osmosis unit later this month.

Our solar power sales continue to climb as well and that, too, has got my attention.

The Tradewinds have been blowing steadily since December and those cruisers that wanted to head west to the Philippines or Thailand have already left in order to miss the Western Pacific's tropical storm season. Here in the Marshalls tropical storms are rare although they do occasionally wreak havoc. Those cruisers heading south to Fiji, Vanuatu, NZ, The Solomons or Oz won't be leaving for another month or two. As for me and the "Deev", I'm not sure of my plans yet...

The local fishing club has been active and it's been a very good year for Mahi-Mahi and Wahoo. Of course there are always a few Blue Marlin in the mix and I'm happy to say that more are being tagged and released than before. No one has reported any really big fish lately but they are always here.

The heads of state out here had their Tuna Fisheries meeting last week but I still don't see much hope for the future of this fishery. There is just too much commercial fishing pressure on the Tuna and they are being raped and pillaged. The latest meeting in Palau came up with a game plan to better regulate the fishery in 10-15 years time. By then I fear it will be too late to save the Tuna. Such is the life of man...

Cheers and Carry On!!!

Chuck

Here and there

In the years I've lived in the Caribbean, there have been, literally, hundreds of 'nights out' that I've missed where good music was played and a fine time was had by all that I've heard about later on. But there are only a handful, like brighter stars in a sky strewn with them, that I've really wished I'd been there. Because I know what the magic moments are like, when what is already good becomes a gestalt of unplanned energies combining to produce something that lodges in the heart even as it is going on - 'Yes,' whispers the spirit, 'this one is branded deep already' as you return to the actual time you are having.

Grady and David played for four hours outside of Hector's last night. I walked up after work to the sight of guitars being tucked away in cases and the smiling gentle murmur of content people telling me what I'd missed. I knew I couldn't persuade one more song, but asked anyway - like a whiny child who wakes up to see his siblings just packing off to bed, the signs of their fun still in the air along with the smell of popcorn the sleeper missed out on. Ah well. While those times can't be re-created, the opportunity to hear Grady and David play together again can happen and hopefully will.

On a completely different note (so to speak). I just got an email from World Wandering Chuck, updating us on the fishing situation where he is presently at anchor in Majuro in the Marshall Islands. It is reminiscent of so many battles, but in such a unique place geographically, I thought I'd share it here; if only to remind us that we are nowhere near alone in trying to Save What's Left.

From The Marshall Islands Journal, 1/22/2010

I quote:

“Palau is proposing the first presidential summit on fisheries in the Pacific region.

The move is part of the increasingly active fisheries role of the eight island nations that are members of the Parties to the Nauru Agreement (PNA), which is now setting up its first headquarters in Majuro.

Palau President Johnson Toribiong has invited the heads of state for the other seven member nations to the first summit on the fisheries that is to be held in Palau at the end of February.

Marshall Islands Marine Resources Authority Director Glen Joseph confirmed to the journal Tuesday that planning for a summit is underway. “This would be the first of its kind,” he said.

Although fisheries ministers representing Forum Fisheries Agency member nations have been meeting annually for the past several years, there has never been a presidential summit on what is unarguably the Pacific’s most important and high value resources: tuna.”

This is a follow up to my last email “rant” to you. As you can glean from the preceding article that was printed in The Marshall Islands Journal, our weekly newspaper here in the RMI, a meeting is scheduled to take place concerning the issue of the Pacific fisheries .If I were you I would not get my hopes up that this “Presidential Summit” will do anything to stop the problem of overfishing here in the western Pacific region. These summits generally do nothing at all except to provide a nice junket for those involved. Even when the “Forum Fisheries Agency” member nations get together little or nothing seems to be accomplished.

(photo credit: Chuck Handy)

I am told, and I can not support this with hard evidence, that certain large and wealthy nations out here who contribute significantly to the economies of these small island nations (or to certain specific individuals) get a carte blanche to do what they want in regard to fishing. It’s called “checkbook diplomacy”. Meanwhile the resource of tuna is being rapidly depleted. The sad thing about this is that the resource of tuna, like that of the forests on land, if properly managed, is a renewable resource that can be sustained.

On that note, Crew, I am signing off for today.

Cheers and Carry On!

Chuck, from the edge of the world

It is, once again, Sunday. If it is anything like the gorgeous Saturday right behind us, it will be a good day to go fishing, swimming or just lazing about outside somewhere, enjoying the warmth of a Culebra winter day. I can't SEE the day yet, but the stars are still blaring out their light in a cloudless sky, so that is a promising omen.

(photo credit: Center for Coastal Studies)

To end, speaking of good omens, Greg told me yesterday that he saw whales earlier this week on the ferry going over to the big island (Greg was on the ferry, not the whales - they shop local-ly). I confirmed that it wasn't just HIM seeing the whales by asking if the captain stopped the boat, and indeed he did, so this is a true whale of a tale sighting (when I asked if it wasn't a bit early to see whales, Greg replied, like a teacher to an errant student, "MJ, they've been known to be seen as early as January FIRST!") So keep your eyes open on any crossings!

Guest speaker time and yes, the party was good

I'm going to gracefully tumble out of the way and let Chuck take over the blog today with another segment of his ongoing journeys. So get in your comfy arm chair traveling mode with a nice cuppa and enjoy!

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Tropical Lows and Blues (Blue Marlin, that is…)

Ahoy Crew and Bula!

I’ve got the Deev just about ready for the1800 mile passage north to the Marshall Islands. I was considering spending some more time in Fiji this time around but after conferring with my weather gurus I decided not to wait much longer as the weather situation can continue to deteriorate as the Tropical Cyclone Season advances. Unfortunately there is a low pressure system just north of Fiji as we speak that lies right in my path to the Marshalls. This system has the potential to develop into the first named storm of the season! I’ll wait and see… After this one rolls by there should be a clear weather window for my trip. As I said, I’ll wait and see…

I waited for two days and today is Saturday the 12^th of December (Friday for all of you on the other side of the dateline. The low pressure system is moving past us as we speak. The weather models showed 35 knot winds and 16 foot seas where I wanted to go and then wind from the north which I don’t want at all. It’s very pleasant sitting it out here in the marina. My plan is to leave tomorrow morning, just behind the low pressure system and I hope to have fair winds and following seas as I make a dash through what is called “Cyclone Alley” and on past the equator.

Meanwhile some of my friends from the Marshalls are here in Fiji to attend a wedding and they have stopped by to visit me for a couple of days before they head to Savu Savu on the second largest island in Fiji, Vanua Levu. The Commodore of our yacht club in the Marshalls, Cary Evart, and his wife, the journalist Karen Evart arrived here Saturday. Our pal Neal Skinner will be flew in, Monday. And Dennis arrived Tuesday. Some of you know these folks well. For those of you who don’t know these guys let’s just say that they are a good bunch. I worked for Neal last year while I was in the Marshalls and he has asked me to work for him again. He said that he’s got some interesting projects in mind. Last year it was solar power systems and water purification projects. I can’t wait to see what he has in mind for this year! An eco-resort perhaps?

I have really enjoyed my stay in Fiji and am sorry to be leaving. I’m thinking that I may come back this way next year. You never can tell… I just barely scratched the surface of Fiji on this trip so there is a lot more to see and do… I’m thinking 6 months in the Marshalls and 6 months in Fiji. What’s wrong with that?

I have been inquiring about the fishing in the offshore waters and I’ve been told that there are good numbers of Blue Marlin, Black Marlin. Striped Marlin and Sailfish with the Blues being the predominant species although most seen and caught are small males and the big females are seldom seen. But you know that if a lot of the boys are around the girls must be in the mix somewhere, too. There are some very reasonable island resorts in the outer islands that are close to good fishing grounds and could work as a good base for further exploration. For those of you who are interested in the topic a Google search for Sport Fishing Fiji will lead you to some very good websites including the Denarau Game and Sportfishing Club, The Royal Suva Yacht Club Game Fishing Association and Gamefishing Fiji.

That’s it for now, Crew. I hope to be off tomorrow morning. I’m all fueled up, iced up, watered up and provisioned and I’m chomping at the bit to go.

Cheers and Carry On!

Chuck

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Sneak peak of the party post...or in this case, the post party, when Francie and I went down to The Spot...apparently. The camera doesn't lie.

Me, Chiqui, Wally, Francie

Have a salubrious Saturday. Do something invigorating and do it for me too. Thanks!

Wide world adverture update

I was going to post about bits of this and that but I got an email from my friend Chuck that I thought was a lot more interesting (you might even read names you know). As he heads for Fiji on his boat Deviant, our own Lori is in St. Martin getting ready to take off tomorrow for not quite so exotic, but very beautiful Rhode Island on a boat delivery. I'm very jealous of both of them in the best of ways, and wish them both fair winds and following seas.

But I do have these pictures from Dinghy Dock that I must post! Of course, now I'm jonesing for lobster...with asparagus...and strawberries...Yes, all fed to me by my slave who somehow manages to keep the hammock swinging and fan me at the same time. It's my fantasy; go get your own.

"They catch 'em, I cook 'em" - Chef Neil

Them's some serious lobster!

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Bula Crew!

Bula is the word of greeting in Fiji. The Deev is Fiji bound in two days. 1,600 miles southeast should take 2-3 weeks depending on weather and sea conditions. I have 2 crew members onboard the Deev with me, Heather, a 43 year old professional women’s basketball player and coach and Taylor, a 23 year old World Teach teacher who spent the last year working in outer island schools. Taylor wants a ride to Fiji so she can fly to Western Samoa and visit her boyfriend who is Peace Corps there and Heather is on walkabout. Small world… Taylor’s Dad sailed the Caribbean back in the 80’s and it seems that he and I have several friends in common.

The new sails for the boat arrived 2 weeks ahead of schedule from Lee Sails in Hong Kong. They are damn near perfect. Of course I should have put them on 10,000 miles ago but I was reluctant to spend the loot. They turned out to be much less expensive than I expected and the quality is excellent.

In Fiji I plan to haul the boat out for bottom painting and other routine maintenance. It’s been 2 years since the last haul out. While there I hope to get a chance to fly back to the States for a visit and perhaps down to the Caribbean for a month or so. We’ll see…

Chuck's sail - 1787 miles to go....

This past year in the Marshall’s has been very satisfying and pleasant. Hanging out with my old pal Neal Skinner was a plus as was reacquainting myself with old friends that I had met here when I passed through with Pete Washburn in the 80’s onboard his boat “Buxom II”.

Fishing has been excellent here in the Marshall Islands as summer approaches. Fishing is good here year around but can get exceptional in the summer when the Yellowfin get thick. Sea conditions get more pleasant in the summer as well. Several 500+ Blue Marlin have been caught recently and quite a few smaller fish in the 300 pound range have been caught as well.

I have mentioned before that the fishing boats here are not top of the line. We have no real boats out here. Most are just small boats with outboards. Fishing techniques are not advanced either. It’s “Jungle Rules” with everyone on board helping to pull in the fish. And nobody backs down or chases the fish.

This place is hot and really should be intelligently developed as a premier fishing destination. Any takers??? Get in touch!

That’s all for now, Crew.

Cheers and Carry On!

Chuck Handy, from the edge of the world.

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If you see me in the street, shout out a 'Bula!'.

With the beautiful weather, I've been going to town and back home via the water. Should have been doing this a LONG time ago (yes, Francie, I'm a slow learner).

Heading home