Saturday, December 13, 2008

Let the parrandas begin!

One of my favorite things about living here this time of year is the custom known as parrandas. Different islands call these musical island walkabouts by different names; in the Virgin Islands they are called tramps. No doubt other islands have other names for them, but here...it's parranda.



So what is a parranda, you might be asking? This is an explanation from the El Boricua web site in an article about Puerto Rican Christmas traditions (which are nothing at all like American Christmas traditions, it's a good read if you are interested in different cultures, especially ones that might be being celebrated in your own neighborhood)

Puerto Ricans are known for their unforgettable "parrandas or trullas navideñas". A parranda is when a small group of friends gathers together to "asaltar" or surprise another friend. It's the Puerto Rican version of Christmas caroling. Most parranderos play some sort of instrument, either guitarras, tamboriles, güiro maracas, or palitos. And they all sing. A parranda tends to be more secular than religious however many of the traditional aguinaldos (Puerto Rican Christmas songs) retain the holiday spirit.

The parranderos arrive at the destination and then very quietly gather by the front door. At a signal all start playing their instruments and singing. The parrandas usually begin after 10pm in order to surprise and wake the sleeping friend. The parranderos are invited in and refreshments, music and dance follow. Of course we don't surprise unsuspecting victims. The parranderos are given plenty of "hints" before hand by the homeowner that he is ready to receive a parranda.

The party goes on for an hour or two then everyone, including the owners of the house, leave to parrandear some more. The group grows as they offer their parranda at several houses during that night. At the last house probably around 3 or 4 in the morning the homeowner offers the traditional chicken soup or asopao de pollo. The party is over at dawn.

Bring on the coquito!!

Yesterday morning as I was sitting at the cart I noticed a lot of older people across the street at the fire station, singing and playing instruments. Sometimes that could mean a church thing, but this time is was a daytime parranda. And did I have my camera, as cuatros were strummed, tamborines were jangled, guiros were scraped, maracas were shaken and voices were lifted in toe tapping song while everyone danced or swayed? Of course I didn't. Later on the group made their way down to Milka's, the colmado (market) down the street and word got back that Hector, one of the owners, was doing some seriously excellent dancing while the parranderos played. A sight I'm really sorry I missed.

I knew it was parranda time because much earlier yesterday morning, around 3 a.m., I woke up to the first parranda of the season coming through my neighborhood. Some people really do NOT like this early wake up call, but I happen to love it. Almost always, the music is good and you know people are out there having a great time. A neighbor of mine has told me I am invited to their parranda, an invitation I've been waiting for for six years now. I won't know the words to the songs, but when has that ever stopped me?

And I promise, I WILL bring my camera!

Felicidades!!

1 comment:

  1. Oh, how I wish we still did that here in St. Maarten.
    Most of thsoe wonderful traditions have been lost here..sadly!
    Barbara

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